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How to propagate a pothos from cuttings in water

In short: Cut a 7.5 to 15 cm stem tip just below a node, strip the leaves off the lowest one or two nodes and stand it in room-temperature water in bright, indirect light. Change the water regularly and pot it up once the roots are a few centimetres long.

Co-authored by Sonia Abu Bakar✓, MSc Botany

By 6 min readPublisher: Saadat Rafiq

Last updated: 28 October 2026References

Set preferred
Illustration of a woman at a kitchen table placing a trailing pothos cutting into a clear glass jar of water, the parent plant beside herIllustration

At a glance

You need
Clean sharp scissors, a clear glass or jar, room-temperature water
Cutting
7.5 to 15 cm stem tip with at least one node (Clemson) or two (Iowa State)
Best time
Spring to summer (Penn State, RHS)
Pot up when
Roots 2.5 cm or more (Iowa State); over 5 to 7.5 cm (University of Vermont)
Advice from
University of Vermont, Iowa State, Clemson and Penn State extension services, RHS, ASPCA, read 28 October 2026
Checked
October 2026

Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) roots from stem cuttings, and the University of Vermont Extension names it among the vining houseplants that root easily in water. Everything depends on the node: the small bump where a leaf joins the stem. New roots grow from it, so a cutting without a node won't root (Clemson Extension).

Water or potting mix: which suits you?

You want to watch the roots grow

Root in water, as below. You can see when the roots are ready (University of Vermont Extension).

You want the smoothest move into a pot

Root straight into a moist, airy mix such as perlite or a peat and perlite blend. Iowa State Extension says roots formed in water are coarser and may be stressed when potted.

How to root a pothos cutting in water

  1. Choose a healthy stem, ideally in spring or summer.

    Illustration of a hand lifting one long, leafy pothos stem away from the pot to look at it, the other stems trailing down
    Illustration

    Penn State Extension says pothos cuttings succeed best during the growing season, from spring through summer. The RHS gives the same window. Pick a stem with firm, green leaves and no yellowing, spots or pests.

    You should see: along the stem, small brown bumps or short aerial roots opposite each leaf. Those are the nodes (Penn State Extension).

  2. Careful: the sap can irritate skin and eyes (RHS). Wear gloves if you're sensitive, and wash your hands afterwards.

    Cut a 7.5 to 15 cm length from the tip, just below a node.

    Illustration of scissors cutting a pothos stem just below a node, with the cut piece showing three leaves and three nodes
    Illustration: cut just below a node

    The University of Vermont and Iowa State extension services both suggest a 3 to 6 inch (about 7.5 to 15 cm) cutting from a stem tip. Clemson Extension says it needs at least one node; Iowa State says at least two. Two or three nodes give you a safety margin.

    Cutting the parent just above a node, as Penn State suggests for pruning, also helps it branch from that point.

    You should see: a cutting with a few leaves and at least two nodes, with a clean cut just below the lowest one.

  3. Remove the leaves from the lowest one or two nodes.

    Illustration of fingers pinching off the bottom leaf of a pothos cutting, leaving a bare node and two leaves higher up
    Illustration

    Leaves that sit in water rot and cloud it. The University of Vermont Extension says to remove the leaves from the bottom one or two nodes. Iowa State also suggests removing or trimming very large leaves, so the cutting loses less water while it has no roots.

    You should see: one or two bare nodes at the bottom and a few leaves at the top.

  4. Stand the cutting in water with the bare nodes under and every leaf above.

    Illustration of a clear jar of water holding a pothos cutting, the bare nodes below the waterline and the leaves above it
    Illustration: nodes under water, leaves above

    Use room-temperature water and keep all the leaves above the waterline (University of Vermont Extension). You can put several cuttings in one jar if they all fit without leaves going under.

    You should see: the bare nodes fully covered by water and no leaves touching it.

  5. Put the jar somewhere warm with bright, indirect light.

    Illustration of a jar with a cutting on a table a short distance from a bright window with a sheer curtain, out of the direct sunbeam
    Illustration

    Iowa State Extension suggests 4 to 6 hours of bright, indirect light and air at 65 to 75 °F (about 18 to 24 °C) for rooting cuttings. Too little light slows rooting. Keep the jar out of hot direct sun: Penn State says direct sun yellows pothos leaves.

    You should see: a bright spot where the jar casts only a soft shadow.

  6. Change the water regularly and never let the roots dry out.

    Illustration of a hand pouring fresh water into a jar holding a pothos cutting with short white roots
    Illustration

    Iowa State Extension says to change the water once or twice a week and never let the level drop so far that the new roots are left in air. The University of Vermont Extension says to swap in fresh room-temperature water whenever it turns cloudy.

    Be patient. The University of Vermont says rooting can take days, weeks or sometimes months. Iowa State gives 3 to 6 weeks for most houseplant stem cuttings; neither gives a figure for pothos alone.

    You should see: clear water and, after a while, small white roots growing from the nodes.

  7. Pot it up once the roots are a few centimetres long.

    Illustration of hands setting a rooted pothos cutting with white roots into a small pot of potting mix that has a drainage hole
    Illustration

    The sources differ on when. Iowa State says pot up once the roots are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) long or more; the University of Vermont waits until they are more than 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm). Use a small pot with a drainage hole and fresh potting mix, cover the roots, and keep it well watered in bright, indirect light while it settles (Iowa State).

    Once it's growing, treat it like an adult pothos: let the mix dry before watering again (Clemson, Penn State). Our watering guide shows how to check.

    You should see: the cutting standing upright in the mix, with no roots showing above the surface.

How to tell it worked

  • White roots grow from the nodes under water.
  • The leaves above the water stay firm and green.
  • After potting, the cutting stays upright and doesn't wilt once it has settled in.
  • Within a few weeks of potting, a new leaf unfurls from the tip or a node.

If something goes wrong

What happensWhat it meansWhat to do
The water turns cloudy or smellsLeaves or stem are rotting in itChange the water (University of Vermont) and remove any leaf that's under water
No roots after several weeksToo little light or warmth, or no node under waterMove it to brighter, indirect light at 18 to 24 °C (Iowa State); check a node is submerged
The stem turns soft and brown at the baseThe cut end is rottingCut above the soft part, just below a healthy node, and restart in fresh water
The cutting wilts after pottingWater roots adjusting to the mix (Iowa State)Keep the mix moist, not soggy, in bright, indirect light while it settles
Leaves yellow in a sunny windowToo much direct sun (Penn State)Move it out of the direct sunbeam

Once your new plant fills its first pot, our repotting guide shows how to move it on.

Questions readers ask

Can I propagate a pothos from a single leaf?

Not reliably. Clemson Extension says a cutting needs at least one node, the bump where the leaf meets the stem, to root properly. A leaf with no piece of stem and node has nothing to grow new roots and shoots from.

Do I need rooting hormone?

Not for water rooting. Iowa State Extension lists rooting hormone as optional for stem cuttings. Pothos is one of the vining plants the University of Vermont Extension names as easy to root in water.

Can I just keep the cutting in water for good?

None of our sources recommends it. Both the University of Vermont and Iowa State extension services describe water as a rooting stage, followed by potting up in a mix suited to the plant. Iowa State notes that roots formed in water are coarser and can be stressed by the move, so the longer you wait, the bigger the change.

Is pothos safe around cats and dogs?

No. The ASPCA lists golden pothos as toxic to dogs and cats because it contains insoluble calcium oxalates, which can cause mouth irritation, drooling, vomiting and difficulty swallowing. Keep the jar of cuttings out of reach as well as the parent plant.

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